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Not All Who Wander Are Lost
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The Collected Adventures of Chris Dessert and Various Cohorts!

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The Memorial Weekend plan was to assault the Sawtooth Range in Idaho with our formidable climbing expertise.  Due to a bad forecast we went to Plan B, a Saturday summit attempt of Mt. Hood in Oregon, then head SE to finish up the weekend rock climbing at Smith Rock.  Due to bad snow flurries and high winds we had to cut Hood out, and were resigned to 3 days of rock climbing at Smith. Yes, we were totally broken up over it, uh YEAH! This was our first trip to Smith, so instead of staying at the excellent Smith campgrounds with hot showers, we bedded up at a sleazy hotel in a nearby town. Saturday morning, bright and early we headed out to Smith. This was not like the dirty, messy climbing areas we were used to. A well-manicured state park, with bathroom facilities located at convenient intervals, picnic benches, maintained trails running throughout the rock climbing areas. It didn't take us long to realize that the section known as the Dihedrals was quite the happening spot. Let's go. It was busy, but we didn't have to wait for any routes. We did Lichen It, Bunny Face. Dave led up this sweet, slanting crack. I got to lead the second pitch, a very exposed face climb. If you fell you were definitely going to pendulum around the corner and smack into rock. I was quite proud I got up that one. David followed up and fell on the last move, but we won't talk about that one, heheh. Day two. We wanted multi-pitch action baby. So we went to Red Wall. After some scrambling to find out just where the route started, we got to work on Moscow, a 3-4 pitch 5.6 route. There was some uncertainty halfway up. We weren't sure whether this route was going to top out and we had to scramble down some way. Or if we had to rappel back down the way we came. There weren't any chains to rappel, and we didn't want to leave gear behind, so we kept going up. We topped out and found a scramble descent. Schweet! Okay, it looks like the jewel of Red Wall was open. It was a 3 pitch 5.6 route known as Super Slab. The first pitch goes up a nice crack, then a tricky traverse to the base of the 3rd pitch. Boy was it a pitch to remember! An excellent crack running all the way to the top. It gives you a nice, excited 'airy' feeling. We topped out and realized that the rappel descent required double ropes. We only had one. So we had to make a 5.8 move up a boulder crack and descended the same scramble path for Moscow. On the third day we were planning to hike out a ways to

Pics!
The Hay Sphinx. Is that a mirage?  No, it's just the climbing Mecca, Smith Rock. Side view of the Smith Rock Group Chris, heading down to the climbing area.
The Hay Sphinx. Is that a mirage? No, it's just the climbing Mecca, Smith Rock. Side view of the Smith Rock Group Chris, heading down to the climbing area.
Dave too. View east into the climbing area View west Dave working the first pitch of 'In Harm's Way', a 5.7 trad/sport combo route
Dave too. View east into the climbing area View west Dave working the first pitch of 'In Harm's Way', a 5.7 trad/sport combo route
Okay, can I come down now? Sun setting over the Smith Rock Group The Dihedrals are the busiest section of Smith Rock Closeup
Okay, can I come down now? Sun setting over the Smith Rock Group The Dihedrals are the busiest section of Smith Rock Closeup
Marsupial Crags section of Smith Rock Wider shot
Marsupial Crags section of Smith Rock Wider shot