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Vantage Cragging

February 15th, 2010

Due to the rahter unusual weather, rock climbing is generally in now and we decided to take advantage by heading out to Vantage on Monday for some cragging. The plan was for Mel, Dave, Erin and myself to go out and show erin the ropes as she hadn't been climbing in 3 years (and then only once). Dave and Erin picked us up from our house at 7:30ish and we were on our way. We made a quick stop in the Lil Easy (Ellensburg for those of you not in the know) for caffeine and food, and made it to the rock around 10:30 or so.

Since Erin hadn't ever really climbed before, we decided to start at the feathers. The weather was a little chilly, but not too bad and the rock was nice and dry. I opened up my new rope and lead Fraggled Pickle (5.10A) and Dave follwed and cleaned it after Mel gave it an attempt and determined she need to warm up. We then went around to the other side to lead the 5.4 so Erin could have a go. Mel got half way up before deciding that she didn't want to make it to the third and rather largely spaced bolt, so Dave took over and finished up. We all had a lap on it then Mel cleaned it and explained to Erin what she was doing. After that, we headed along the wall to an area that has a 5.7 and a 5.5 right next to eachother so Mel could teach Erin how to clean and rap. I lead up the 5.7 trailing a second rope and set up both anchors. Mel showed Erin how to clean, and she had her first Rappel which she liked more than being lowered.

We then decided to head over to the sunshine wall and check it out. I figured we could do ride em cowboy, and everyone agreed that it would be a good idea. We climbed up the trail and took a quick break on the mesa to eat some lunch and take in the beautiful views. We headed down through the cave, and were greeted by a group of climbers on ride em. So, we continued along the base of sunshine until I found a 5.7 to lead and set up for Erin and Mel. With the ladies on the 5.7, Dave and I went in search of some trad. I had seven virgins and a mule in mind, but ended up in shady chimney instead. I started the climb thinking this doesn't feel right as I had done seven virgins before and before I knew it I was 15 feet above dave with no gear in and the crack was no wider than my chest. That being the case, I couldn't get any gear in the correct crack and decided to squeeze my way down instead. Dave was a bit nervous, but I made it down safely and then instead led the super long 5.9 right next to it. The beta was to rack all your draws on the right which turned out to be the case. I had to hang as my left forearm was about to expode from always clipping with my right hand (guess I need to do some endurance climbing). After making it to the top, Erin wanted to give it a go and made it about 70% of the way up before burning out. Dave then climbed it and cleaned it which brought our climbing to a close.

We met my mom in the Lil Easy for dinner at the bar 14 which was actually pretty terrible. It wasn't that the food was bad, but the service was terrible. I think we waited for about an hour for our food. I have been there a number of times and had good experineces, so hopefully this was a fluke. After that, we headed back towards seattle and Dave dropped us off around 9. It was a great day of climbing with a wonderful group of people. I can't wait to get out with them again, and the way the weather is going, I won't have to.