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Squamish - Climbing

May 23-25, 2009

We had originally planned on having a nice relaxing weekend out at the coast for memorial day weekend, but work on the bridge pretty much crushed those plans as the driving time would have significantly increased. Instead, we decided to head up to Squamish for a weekend of climbing and to check out an area that everyone raves about. I had been through there many times on my way to whistler but never to climb so I was pretty excited about the prospect of climbing that huge mass of granite.

Our group for this trip consisted of Evan, Annelisa, Michelle, Mel, and myself. Evan, Annelisa and Michelle planned to head up a bit earlier than us and save a campsite as we figured it might be a pretty busy weekend up there. Mel and I packed up and were out of Seattle around 7:30, which actually worked out since we didn't see much traffic. The worst part was duty free where there was a rather large line to get booze, but having bought it in Canada before, it was worth the wait.

Mel and I arrived in Squamish around 11:30 and were able to reach Annelisa on the radio and figure out where they had camped. It was basically a big field next to the rec centre(We're in Canada now, so I may as well spell it 'properly'). This turned out to be much better than the climber's campground as it was open so there were less bugs, it was quite a bit cheaper, and we actually stayed the first night for free since no one was around to take our money. Mel and I set up out tent and were shortly there after in bed for the night.

We woke up around 8ish and got a rather leisurely start. We milled around for a while eating some fruit and oatmeal for breakfast as well as trying out the French press without much luck. After packing up all of our gear, we headed to the rec center to pay for a campsite for the next two days. The center was super nice and had bathrooms as well as the opportunity for free showers as long as you made it during swimming hours (which I think was before 7PM). After getting the site, we headed into town to grab some stuff for lunch and some real coffee for the caffeine addicts(like me). The Squamish store provided delicious baked goods and cheese, and we were off to the chief to explore a route Annelisa had done before called Slot Machine (2p 5.8, 5.6).

A short approach and an interesting climb up some fixed lines brought us to the base. Evan and Annelisa were up first, and Evan took the lead. The first part of pitch one is definitely the crux of the whole route with an interesting move to get off the deck and then super fun cracks for the rest of the pitch bring you to a tree belay. While they were on the slot machine, Michelle and I went to check out women in comfortable shoes(5.9). I tried to lead out and made it to the first bolt but just couldn't find a good way to get past it. It is a sort of ramp for the feet and nothing (that I could find) for the hands on slab. I gave up and let Michelle give it a go. She also got up to the first bolt but it was not meant to be for our first climb of the day so we recovered the draw and retreated to the base of slot machine. While we were waiting for Evan and Annelisa who had all of the gear, a guy came and free soloed it so he could take pictures of his two friends climbing it from above. Not too long after they were both up the first pitch, Evan came down and I was off and leading up the first pitch with two ropes to bring both Mel and Michelle up. I found the first pitch to be stellar with great jams and some lie backing to the top where I got a nice finger lock in a tree root. We had an interesting time managing the two fat ropes on the way up, but both Mel and Michelle made it up and I was off leading the second pitch which was much less difficult and very enjoyable. After a bit of rope snafu on the rappels, we were back to the ground and off to play on some of the camp boulders.

The slot Machine

Evan leads the tricky beginning

Annelisa follows and cleans the first pitch

Mel high on the first pitch of slot machine

Michelle Comes over the crest of pitch 2

Ladies at the top

Evan had already gone down and scoped out some of the bouldering, so we followed him into the woods to try out a couple of problems. I was able to get a couple V0's and Evan got a pretty neat V2, but man bouldering sure is a harder outside. Perhaps it is kind of like climbing outside in that you just need to get used to the difference, but I don't really see myself going to do too much outdoor bouldering unless I can get out with someone who can really show me the ropes. We also went to the titanic boulder and played around on it for a little bit before we decided to call it a day. Everyone was pretty into calling it a day, but I convinced Evan and Annelisa to come out with me for a little bit more roped climbing. We dropped Mel and Michelle off, and headed out to the smoke bluffs which were quite near our camp area.

At the bluffs, we decided to go check out the Burgers and Fries area. I started out on Burgers and Fries (5.7) which was an enjoyable climb until the crack ran out and there was no more protection. A bit of run out slab got me to the top and I was pretty happy to be there. Evan and Annelisa each took a lap on it, and then Annelisa had her first gear lead on Dusty Eyes (5.4). There was a huge chunk of rock on the ground that had originally been part of the route, so she actually started up closer to wise crack. It was a pretty funny lead with her really running it out near the bottom, then sewing it up near the top as she got further and further off the deck. Evan followed and cleaned it and we took some laps on the rope of a very nice Canadian couple we had been chatting with. We did Wisecrack (5.7) which had a super fun lie back flake and then called it a day. I was very happy that we decided to come out and do some more climbing. I'll have to rely on Evan for the pictures though since we only used his camera.

We decided it would be pretty fun to run down the trail, and it was, until I stepped weird and rolled my ankle. I heard a wonderful pop as I did it, but was able to kind of walk it off a bit. We got back to camp where I nursed the ankle with ice, Ibuprofen, and some beer(I know they don't exactly mix). We went to the rec center and cleaned up a bit, then back at camp Evan made some super delicious Falafel. We built a fire and chatted for a while before turning in for the night.

The next morning, Michelle and I made a coffee and scone run and returned to everyone else stirring about the campsite lured by our treats. We once again got a very leisurely start to the day, and made it out of camp by around 10. Fortunately, my ankle didn't really bother me too much and I just continued on a course of Ibuprophen and climbing to set it straight. We decided to make this another cragging day and headed out to the smoke bluffs this time heading for something Mel would enjoy a bit more. The name of the area we went to was Channel road and we headed for the Jug slab expecting some jugs and easy climbing for Mel. Unfortunately what we found was some kind of difficult slab climbing with small or no edges for hands and smearing. We climbed the first wall which included David's (5.6), Stepladder (5.7), Moominland(5.8), and Hamish's(5.7). Annelisa and Michelle each led routes while Evan and I topped them all to save some time. Mel tried her best to climb it, but slab technique isn't the easiest to pick up. As Evan kept saying, it is kind of all about the suspension of disbelief. After the slabfest, I convinced everyone to go to Penny lane so I could take a look at crime of the century.

Mel tries her hands and feet at some slab

Annelisa leads the 5.8

Evan tops some slab

After getting to the Penny Lane Area, I lead the areas namesake crack Penny Lane (5.9). The start was a bit tricky with some liebacking on rather polished rock where my feet kept slipping but eventually I was able to get to the wider portion of the crack and get in a sinker hand and place a piece of pro to prevent myself from a large fall (Whew!). After that, it was a stellar crack with great ands and some fingers and rest ledges every so often on the way up. I set up a directional at the top and hiked about 20 feet over to a set of chains so everyone could give it a go. After everyone had their shot at it, Evan climbed it again in great style and set up a toprope so I could give crime of the century (5.11c) a go. I was pretty sure the steep bottom part would be too hard, so I aided the first bit with 3 nut placements and some slings before I gave the rest of the route a go. I think I probably alerted everyone else that I was on the route with constant yelling and small finger locks with my feet sliding. I surprised myself a bit with how much I was able to pull on two finger tips in a small lock. I hung my way up a route I knew the route was well above my ability but it sure was fun to try it out.

Me at the a little ways up Penny Lane

Past the Crux on Penny Lane

Me Near the top

Evan Follows Penny Lane

Evan readjusts the rope on the way down

Annelisa on Penny Lane

Michelle on Penny Lane

Mel on Penny Lane

Me Aiding the first part of Crime of the Century

Cranking Fingers

After that, we decided to head around the corner to Quarryman(5.8), which Evan led. He was enticed by the good holds up top to head for the 5.10a variation which is a finger crack that kind of peters out toward the end. He decided to downclimb a bit and rejoined the original route to the finish. After that, we all took turns on it and I tried both the variation(fun, but would be tense on lead) and the original line with was super fun. Mel even enjoyed this climb (until the crack portion) with some excellent liebacking technique. After that, we called it a day and headed in to Squamish for some Gelato after receiving some beta about it from locals. We were not disappointed as the Gelato was fantastic and the scoops were extra huge. Mel also ended up sending mine for a ride as I passed her my cone and she proceeded to break it with her crushing grip strength leaving me with a hand full of Gelato. We quickly grabbed a dish and the crisis was averted. After that, we stopped at the store and ran into some friends (Jon, Eric, Choi(?)) who came back to our campsite for a beer(they were leaving that evening). After cooking some potatoes and hotdogs and drinking some beer, we played some bocce ball and then settled down by the fire. Our original plan was for Evan and I to go hit up Deidre (7p 5.8) but he wasn't feeling well so we thought we would check again when we woke up. I the morning, Mel and I went for round two of coffee and breakfast pastries and Evan confirmed that he was not feeling well so we decided to just pack it up and call it a weekend.

Mel on Quarryman

Mel on Quarryman

Me on Quarryman variation

We had a good drive back home, and a pretty mellow border crossing. All in all, this was a great weekend climbing with awesome people! I can't wait to get back to Squamish and do some more climbing.