From jburnell@jps.net Wed Jun 11 06:29:25 PDT 1997 On Tue, 10 Jun 1997 02:22:31 GMT, ROBO (ROBO) wrote: >After one too many stiff root beers Bob Smith >belched the following : > >>I am a pencil neck beginner who currently works out at home (for a >>number of reasons). I have some good equipment -- 7' standard bar, >>bench, squat/press stand (like a half cage), EZ curl bar, and >>dumbbells. All of these use standard plates, of which I have several >>hundred pounds. >By standard, I assume you mean the ones with the smaller holes and the >thin bars. >>My question is, as I go up in weight, is it worth it to get an Olympic >>set? Right now, as a 6'2" 175 pounder I am not lifting much weight. But >>that will change! I was about to buy some more plates, but it occurred >>to me that maybe I should consider an Olympic set. >> >>OTOH, because I don't really do any "Olympic" moves like cleans or >>snatches, why do I need an Olympic set? Does it really matter for >>squats, dead lifts, benches, etc.? You can get 50 lb plates for >>standard bars, so what is the advantage of an Olympic set. >If my above assumption is correct, just try squatting or deadlifting >with that skinny little bar. Especially squats, your damn neck will >be killing you forever. Even benches will get painful for the hands >once you start putting some weight on the bar. Plus, the bar won't >bend as much. >>BTW, I saw a Gold's Gym 310 lb Olympic set, including bar and curl bar, >>for $129. >Jump. >ROBO >email to beare@mindspring.com, if you wish. If you plan on getting strong to the point where you will be squatting 400+ for reps in the future, etc. DO NOT get a cheap Olympic Bar. After @ 400 lbs or so they start whipping around and bouncing. Get a GOOD quality squat bar. ie a Texas Power bar, a York Power Bar or and Eleiko or somesuch. The good bars will set you back a few $$$ ( @200 for a Texas PB, @330 for a York and @ 600 for an Eleiko) but they will last forever. Also they all will have good knurling and won't slip and slide.. You can buy the cheap plates - just get them in pairs but don't skimp on the bar. Also, if the guts of your workouts will be squats, benches, deads, etc DO NOT get a regular OLYMPIC Bar get a POWR BAR. York and others make bars for both sports and they are DIFFERENT. Power bars are stiffer because you want as little flexing as possible - except perhaps in the DL but the true OL bars are designed to have a little more "life" in them. The sporting goods store bars are OK to start with but as you get stronger they start to be.......well, less than adequate. Jason W. Burnell - http://home.jps.net/cburnell/deepsquatter.htm From sponge1000@postoffice.worldnet.att.net Wed Jun 11 06:32:32 PDT 1997 Angela Pahlow wrote: > > On Mon, 09 Jun 1997 21:36:43 -0700, Bob Smith > wrote: > > >I am a pencil neck beginner who currently works out at home (for a > >number of reasons). I have some good equipment -- 7' standard bar, > >bench, squat/press stand (like a half cage), EZ curl bar, and > >dumbbells. All of these use standard plates, of which I have several > >hundred pounds. > > > >My question is, as I go up in weight, is it worth it to get an Olympic > >set? Right now, as a 6'2" 175 pounder I am not lifting much weight. But > >that will change! I was about to buy some more plates, but it occurred > >to me that maybe I should consider an Olympic set. > I think so, but maybe it's just pure opinion. I'm in the market for > one myself. The standard sets just don't appeal to me. > > > >OTOH, because I don't really do any "Olympic" moves like cleans or > >snatches, why do I need an Olympic set? Does it really matter for > >squats, dead lifts, benches, etc.? You can get 50 lb plates for > >standard bars, so what is the advantage of an Olympic set. > I'm interested in the answer to this also. In my shopping around, I > prefer the Olympic mostly from a quality standpoint. And because I > don't think I'll need to be buying additional plates any time soon! > > > >Your comments are appreciated. > > > >BTW, I saw a Gold's Gym 310 lb Olympic set, including bar and curl bar, > >for $129. > > > That may be a good deal. The lowest price I've seen (not including a > curl bar) is $165. I just can't seem to find a used Olympic set. > (Hint! Hint!) I'm sure that's because anyone who buys one is a more > dedicated lifter, not a New Years impulse buyer.... > >-- > >Bob Smith > >RDSMITH3@IX.NETCOM.COM > > > Since you already have adequate weight with your standard set, maybe > you should stick with that. I don't really have a better answer for > you, sorry. I'll be watching this thread for more info, though. > Thanks for asking! > > Angela Pahlow angelak@vbe.com > "Pump till ya Puke!" > NE Wisconsin Chapter, MFW Assault Crew The obvious difference between a standard bar, besides the size hole in the weights, is the ability of the weights to turn on the ends of the bar. Some may argue as to whether this difference is worth the money or not. IMHO, however, the most important difference you'll find between two bars may not be readily noticable. The strength of the bar itself is very important. As you increase in strength, you will no doubt find yourself with 300, 400, or even 600 pounds on your back, doing squats. With a cheap bar, you will notice a definate bounce in the weights at even 250 pounds as you step away from the rack. If this bounce is severe, you may have difficulty balancing. It may also disrupt your rhythm when lifting moderate to heavy. I would say that if you never intend to squat over, say, about 300 to 350 pounds, a very good standard bar may be OK. However, if you intend to go heavy, and I'm sure you eventually will, find a good olympic bar. Keep in mind that just because it is an olympic bar doesn't make it good. I've seen a lot of cheap olympic sets out there lately. I can't really tell you exactly what to look for, but I have a few ideas. You'll probably want to check out several stores that specialize in weightlifting equip. Ask about their capacity, look at the bearings on the ends. Do they turn they smooth, or rough? Chech out the knurling. It should be well defined but not extremely rough. The knurling can give a clue to the quality of workmanship also. Is it even all the way around the bar, from one end to the other? Is the center section of the bar thicker than other olympics? I would say that a good bar will have a high capacity, good even knurling, a slightly thicker center shaft, and smooth bearings on both ends. Anyone else? BTW, I have a very good quality standard bar; it is 7 foot long (just over 2 meters) and is made of solid, knurled, cold rolled steel. There are plenty of cheaper bars, and, I'm sure, a few that are better. Even so, when I go heavy (250 pounds + is fairly heavy to me), the bar begins to flex and bounce. At this point, I am also considering an olympic bar, but I share in your delemna; I have nearly 600 pounds of standard plates that I hate to part with. I hope this helps a bit. Tom Date: Sun, 23 Aug 1998 16:44:19 -0700 From: 6and1@worldnet.att.net Subject:beeper for squat I appreciate all of the tips and advice I get from reading the contributions to this listserve. Thanks for the earlier discussions on the beeper that lets you know when you break paralell on the squat. I bought one from Bigger,Faster,Stronger and it has really helped. Of course, I found I wasn't going as deep as I thought I was (I lift at home with no one to keep me honest) and had to drop my poundage about 20 lbs. But, it is really helping me find the groove on a consistent basis and has actually helped my concentration when I squat. You more experienced guys probably don't need it, but it has helped me and I appreciate hearing about it here. Bill Thomson Phoenix, Az Date: Mon, 24 Aug 1998 19:54:36 -0700 From: 6and1@worldnet.att.net Subject: Strength_List: squat beeper source To those who asked, there may be other sources but I got my squat beeper from Bigger,Faster,Stronger in Salt Lake City. They call it the Safety Squat and it costs $45.00. The number is (800)-628-9737. Bill Thomson Phoenix, AZ Date: Fri, 11 Sep 1998 14:44:21 -0400 From: "Tim&Christa" Subject: Re: Strength_List: Bar Knurling Knurling cannot, unfortunately, be re-done. It's a one shot deal, once the tool that cuts the knurl leaves contact with the item being knurled you can't get it back in the right alignment. Go to the local hardware store and buy a filecard. It looks like a primitive hairbrush with very fine steel bristles. Filecards are designed to clean metal shavings from between the grooves on files and will make the knurling clean and as deep as new with a little diligence. >Bar Knurling > >Please pardon the posting to multiple lists. > >The bar I have is supposed to be plenty strong for my purposes. >Guaranteed to 450 kgs. It is not a powerlifting bar, so the >knurling it does have is not especially deep. The centre is >smooth. At the moment the existing knurling is not a problem. > >What is the best way to deal with a smooth bar when decent >knurling in the centre would help keep it up on the back during >squats? Has anyone taken a bar to a machine shop to have the >knurling re-done or done in the first place? > >One idea I had was to wrap the centre with white athletic tape. >This would provide more grip than the smooth bar. > >Any ideas, esp. if you've dealt with this problem, will be >appreciated. > >Scott Date: Fri, 02 Oct 1998 15:57:16 -0700 From: Daniel Yourg Subject: sled >From: "Landers,Garth" > >How much does the sled help? Cost? If you don't mind my asking. > >How do you use it? Are there progressions? > > There are different sleds on the market. The one I purchased is from Louie Simmons at Westside Barbell. It costs $100, shipping included. I do not have anything to compare it to, but it appears to be of great quality. It has a 2" plate holder for Olympic size plates, and a strong,quality strap for the attachment. You can attach it directly to your weight belt, and then to a closed hook on the sled. Louie recommends using it four times per week. On leg days he uses it for six sets of 200 feet, 135 pounds. He does four sets on non leg days. I believe he minimally recommends using it after leg days to breakup the soreness etc. This is my interpretation from watching the squat videos. I think Dave Tate uses it four or five times per week, and works up to four or five 45 pound plates on it(if I am remembering correctly what he posted). Me, I think my boys weigh about 60 pounds together. :) Since I do not have a home gym, I just purchased some used 45 pound plates and change. You can do it with your legs behind your back, or with your hands below your knees(really gets the hams/glutes). Can walk backwards, or strap it to your leg so that you are doing a side walk to work the hips. Dan Yourg Date: Wed, 7 Oct 1998 13:15:58 EDT From: WestsideBB@aol.com Subject: Re: Strength_List: Squat suits Wade: Hopefully the following info will prove useful: I have a medium-length torso, long legs, and long arms. My hips, glutes, and legs are thick although I am probably most suited to deadlift. I have never used an Inzer suit and cannot comment on their effectiveness. I have used Marathon and Titan suits exclusively. The Marathon squat suit has proved very effective for me. It's definitely not built for comfort. But if it's comfort you're after, I suggest golf. I have been cut and bruised very badly from these suits. However, they provide me with good support in the hips, glutes, and legs...which is my preference. The bottom of a squat suit must be tight in order to be effective. The upper portion of the squat suit, in my opinion, has little ergogenic effects other than increasing your confidence and providing that overall "tight" feeling. This increased level of confidence may be the "difference" for many. I do not recommend deadlifting in the Marathon squat suit. I have had trouble getting down into proper deadlift position with a Marathon. I have used the Marathon Deadlift suit with above average results. But let me warn you...it is incredibly uncomfortable!!! It is just the opposite of traditional suits that are tight at the bottom and looser at the top. The Deadlift suit is looser in the hips and legs and is tighter up top. In other words, it almost feels as if the suit is pulling you upwards. Translation: the most excruciating groin pain I have ever experienced!!! Although the suit helps, it was so painful for me I have since put it aside in favor of a loose Titan suit or a singlet. I have also used the Titan custom tailored dual quad squat suit. I like the fabric of the Titan better than that of the Marathon. It has more "give" and is much more comfortable and "skin-friendly". As for performance, it definitely works well but has a different groove than the Marathon. One nice thing about the Titan is that they are specifically tailored to your dimensions...via your measurements. In other words, two guys could weigh 200 pounds and have drastically different measurements. Titan takes this into account. Marathon merely gives you a suit based upon height, weight, thigh, and hip parameters. Consequently, those two guys weighing 200 pounds with different thigh measurements could order from Marathon and receive the same exact suit. The Titan is great for deadlifting as it allows me to get into good starting position. I'm not certain that a suit really helps "that much" in deadlift performance anyway. If you look at the deadlifts over the years, they haven't improved as much as the squats and bench presses. This is partly due to the fact that no one has been able to figure out how to increase the deadlift with equipment. I kinda like it that way. Ultimately squat suit performance and preference, like most other things in life, will vary between individuals. Good luck and stay strong, Matt Gary Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 00:26:17 -0400 From: "Stephen Peters/liftit01" Subject: Dumbell handles I have the big-boy handles and they are amazing. I use them as much as possible for everything from clean and jerks to farmers walk. They will hold over 200lbs each. They are expensive and you've got to spray them lightly with a rust inhibiting paint, but they will add an exiting new component to your training. They are well worth the money. Stephen Peters. - -----Original Message----- From: Steve Guthre Date: Wednesday, October 07, 1998 7:07 PM Subject: Dumbell handles >I am looking for some good dumbell handles and was wondering if anyone >knew where I could get some decent ones. I'd love to have Ironmind's > Bigboy handles, but I don't want to spring for $150 on them until I know >how much I'd use them. > Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 22:27:55 -0500 From: "S. Guthrie" Subject: Re: Strength_List: Platform Here's how both my lifting partners and I made our platforms, and they will hold up to about anything: Take sixteen 8' long 2x4's and nail the faces together. This will make a 4 x 8 platform. Then take 2 4x8 sheets of plywood and screw them onto the top and bottom of the patform. Use a 4x1 facing board to keep the weight from rolling off, cover the top with rubber mats, and you have a platform that will last a lifetime. guthrie Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 09:08:33 EST From: WestsideBB@aol.com Subject: Re: Strength_List: best knee wraps? In a message dated 11/22/1999 4:34:42 AM Eastern Standard Time, JBL@rubicon.no writes: << They're from Inzer. Black with red stripes. >> Jan, For years I used the Double Goldlines by Marathon and swore by them. That was until I tried the wraps you purchased, the Inzer Ironwraps Z. They are by far the best wraps I have ever used. Now I train with old Double Goldlines and save the Inzer's for the really big weights and meets. Stay strong, Matt Gary Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 11:06:50 -0700 From: Jim Ferry Subject: RE: Strength_List: Singlets >I have a meet coming up in March and it's my first one. My question is are >all singlets created equal? Is one brand better than another, example, is >Titan's better than Inzer's? Do they contribute in anyway to a lift if you >get it a size smaller, etc... A singlet does not contribute anything to a lift the material is generally too stretchy to give you any support. The Inzer singlets are manufactured by a company called Matman for wrestling, and are made from a knit polyester material the price is around $30. The Titan singlets are made by Titan from a stretch lycra type material, and I believe they are around $25. I am really tall and had problems with the Inzer (Matman) singlet as they are cut a little short from the straps to the crotch, and tend to give me a bit of a wedgie. I own a 3xl which is way to short but just right in the width, and 4xl, which is still too short in the straps, and too big in the waist. I recently purchased an Adidas weightlifting suit which I really like it is a 2xl which fits perfect. It is made out of a stretch lycra material, The material is very comfortable, and the suit is cut longer from the straps to the crotch, than the 4x Matman singlet. The Adidas suits are a little more expensive around $69, I bought mine as a close out item for only $25 from Dynamic fitness. Jim Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 22:58:15 -0600 From: "Allen Mays" Subject: Re: Strength_List: Squat Suit Tips? I have found that the easiest way to put on a squat suit is to turn it inside-out, except for the elastic band in the leg. Pull up the legs until you get them pretty close to where they will be worn. Then just "roll" the rest of the suit up. You probably should have someone helping you at this point. You will need them to pull up the straps to get the suit up all the way. This should take 5-15 minutes. Enjoy! Allen Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 15:32:27 -0700 From: "Schurman, Doug" Subject: RE: Strength_List: Medicine Balls & Boxing I have made my own Medicine balls and they work great. You can go to a toy store and buy the rubber playground balls of different sizes. Then I used a needle nose pliers to pull out the valve and filled it with water. The valve goes right back in and is water tight. You throw them and drop them and they won't break. For a boxing heavy bag what would people suggest using. I was thinking you might be able to buy a duffel bag that stuffs from one end and fill it with sand. Any thoughts? Doug Schurman, CSCS BodyResults Seattle, WA www.BodyResults.com doug@BodyResults.com oDate: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 23:57:09 -0500 From: "John A. Casler - BIO-FORCE" Subject: Strength_List: Fw: [supertraining] INEXPENSIVE ELASTIC BANDS - ----- Original Message ----- From: Mcsiff@aol.com Subject: [supertraining] INEXPENSIVE ELASTIC BANDS Dr Siff wrote: <<<>>> ****Hi Mel, I agree. I have been using these cords (bungee) for the last few years and they work great. I found a brand at COSTCO that had large plastic coated hooks on each end that snugly snapped around an Olympic Bar. There are a couple methods I use that I have found very effective. 1) is the obvious, attach one end to the top of your power rack and the other end to your bar. You need to select a length or in some way shorten or lengthen the cord to begin subtracting force in the range of motion you desire. This reduces the weight at the bottom of your lift and gives you full weight at the top. GOOD FOR: benches, and squats 2) is the opposite. attach one end to the bottom of the rack and then to your bar. GOOD FOR: benches,squats, rows and Deadlifts 3) attach them so they span the power rack uprights so the bar contacts them on the way down (as in the last 6-8 inches of a squat) and it subtracts force at the very bottom. For this option (which I find is the best) you may need to devise a method to secure the ends to each upright of the rack at the height you desire. To determine the amount of weight that is subtracted simply rest the unloaded bar on the cords and then load it to the weight that pushes it down to the finishing (or in this case bottom) position. If you wish to subtract more weight simply add more bands and do the test again. GOOD FOR: Squats, Benches and Diving Deadlifts 4) attach them so the bar contacts them on the way up (and it adds force) GOOD FOR: deadlifts --Because it is difficult to lift the bar off (at full extension) and then lift it into the bands, this does not work well for normal benches. A couple hints: When using the cords to span the uprights, cover them with a towel where the bar makes contact on a bare cord. The rougher bars can eventually begin to "fray" the cords and this is not good. Always make sure they are "SECURE" ---VERY SECURE!!! and fastened well. If they come loose unexpectedly it could cause injury and they can be launched across the room with "slingshot" like force and speed. Always use the safety pins below the bands as an added safety factor. And for all you trainers who are training clients, this is not just for PowerLifters. I find this is great for senior citizens too. Many times we need to "load" their skeletons with larger forces than they can lift in most exercise. This is an excellent and safe way to provide the stimulation of "weighted" forces (that are beneficial for maintaining bone density) without too much risk. Just add in the bands early in the movement. For example if you are performing the squat (after a few weeks of very light weights and no bands learning form) begin to use heavier weights in the fully erect position that are reduced substantially almost as soon as the down stroke begins. A good thing about the bands is you can use several that begin at different depths, so in effect at the bottom the actual weight may be nothing or next to nothing. With a little practice and trial and error (you do the trial and error not the client) you will find many ways to use these. (REMEMBER TO ALWAYS START TOO LIGHT AND PROGRESS SLOWLY AND WITH PERFECT FORM WITH SENIORS) With a little creativity they can be used for many different exercises I even used them for a type of standing Neider Press, by attaching them to the bottom of a rack and standing well out in front of it. This allowed me to apply not only a band created force pulling down, but if I stood out in front it also gave me a force to the rear. This allowed me to perform a standing press, some what like a standing incline press. This was great for me as a shot put exercise. But please be careful in your experimentations!!!! If any of you come up with interesting variations or uses please let us all know. Thanks Mel for the suggestion. Regards, John A. Casler BIO-FORCE, Inc. Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 20:50:53 EST From: Treacherous187@aol.com Subject: Questions on Inzer Advance Apparel I just purchased my first Bench Shirt and Squat Suit from Inzer Advance Designs just a minute ago and I have a couple of questions on the two.Will the Champion Suit increase my deadlift as well? If so, about how much do you estimate?I was also wondering how much weight can one expect to increase on the Squat by using the Champion Suit along with Inzer's Ironwraps Z? How much can I expect to gain on my raw bench by using the Heavy Duty Blast Shirt?I would also appreciate anyone who has used the Heavy Duty Shirt to tell me how much they gained on their raw bench? I'm sorry about asking so many questions but you must understand that I'm just a eager to learn 17 year old who LOVES with a PASSION to lift hardcore weight. Thanks for your patience, "L.J." Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 21:18:41 -0600 From: Keith Hobman Subject: Re: Questions on Inzer Advance Apparel Depends. First you have to learn how to use them. Initially you won't lift much more until you find your groove in them. Then you can expect about 10-15% out of the suit and wraps and perhaps 7-8% out of the shirt. Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 15:01:19 -0000 From: Ermantroudt@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Homemade sleds Tagg: What I did was: 1. Measure the size of a 45lbs (or 20kg) plate. Make your plywood deck at least this big. I used two pieces of plywood, so my deck is 1.5 inches thick. 2.Cut the 2x4 into 3 pieces, all as long as the plywood square. Cut the front off at a 45 degree angle, like sled runners. Screw the 2x4's in place, under the deck; one on each side and one in the middle. 3. In the center of the deck, place a 1.5 inch pipe flange. To it, attach a 6 or 8 inch piece of 1.5 inch pipe threaded to a flange. This whole unit is screwed into the plywood and the center runner. The pipe is about the same diameter as a olympic bar and makes a nice post to keep the weight centered on the sled. 4. In the front corners screw in the eye bolts, this is where the rope or chain, you run to your belt, connects to the sled. (I just thought of this) Or you could drill a center hole in the front of the deck and connect the rope through the hole. This would cut down on the front lift, I think. 5. Add weight plates and pull. The total cost was about $30.00US OR What some members of the "BAD_LIST" did was, take a picture of Dave Tates sled to a local metal shop and had one made. Mitch Armentrout Harper Woods, Michigan USA