Southwest Face of Whitechuck - 7 / 14 / 01

Doug, Bill, Colleen and I set out on a Boealps ICC climb of Whitechuck's SW face.  We initially planned to just hike in the first day and climb it the second so we got a leisurely start.  The approach was so short we still got to base camp a little after noon.  Since the weather was scheduled to deteriorate we decided to just jump on the face even if it meant a long day.


The route we climbed more or less follows the right skyline.

We had an enormous amount of confusion finding the start of the route.  The description Beckey lifted directly from the 1967 American Alpine Journal tells one to start at a small lake and head directly towards the summit via a gully and chimneys.  Unfortunately several gullies and chimneys present themselves.  On the face itself two separate slings were visible that seemed to indicate the previous parties had selected the wrong options and retreated.
 


Colleen is just barely visible in a white shirt leading the second pitch.  Doug and Bill are down at the belay.

We eventually started up what looked like a doable line.  The climb was rated at 5.6 and that's mostly what we found.  Considerable loose rock, long run-outs and feeble anchors were the rule, but the climbing was all easy so it never became sketchy.  Our biggest nemesis was rope drag.  Five pitches and scramble landed us on the summit.
 


Me on top in the fading light.
 


Bill coiling the rope.
 

We walked down the standard route which mostly consisted of an exposed goat trail along the ridge to the NW buttress and slick heather and scree down a gully from there.   We even saw a herd of mountain goats in the distance.


Bill ran out of shots on the summit and experienced considerable "film envy" as I snapped these photos of the sunset.

Yes it was totally dark as we dropped off the ridge.  Tired but happy, we made some dinner and crawled in our bivy bags.