Mason, Justin and I were the final takers on a trip to Shuksan planned over the UW climbing list.  This weekend would mark the first time in recent memory that the weather forecast was accurate.  Beautiful weather had been predicted and that's just what we got.  If anything the weather might have been a little too good...

Meanwhile I knew Phil and Matt would be going for the north face.  As I hiked up I made plans to build a big snow Puka Fish on the summit to greet them.
 

Mason climbing the ridge leading to the notch.  Baker Lake is visible in the background.
 

Just above the notch used to attain the ridge we met an Alpine Ascents class.  The guides said that not only did the summit require extensive protection to climb (we hadn't even brought a rope), but the route to the base of the glacier was so avalanche prone we shouldn't proceed any further.  We decided to check it out for ourselves anyway.  Their assessment of the danger below the glacier at least turned out to be greatly exaggerated.
 

View from where we camped at the base of the glacier.  Many ski tracks are visible as this is a popular tour.
 

We arrived at our intended camp spot about 3 in the afternoon.  That left us with a lot of time to kill.  Fortunately we met three more climbers and found plenty to talk about.  It was really warm and the snow mushy.
 

The sound of ice fall serenaded us continuously.  Supposedly the name "Shuksan" originates from an Indian term for "roaring mountain".
 
 

The summit pyramid.  The intended route was the central gully.
 

Some more climbers approached us from above.  They said the south facing gully was so full of soft snow and overhung with rime ice that it couldn't be climbed.  Spirits dampened.
 

Jerome and his friend expressing their displeasure at the mountain not being climbable.
 

We suspected the reports about the summit were accurate because it was so warm, but decided to wake up at 3:30 am, climb to the base, and see for ourselves.

Sunrise.
 

More sunrise.
 

Hiking towards the summit pyramid.

We arrived at the base of the pyramid around 6.  The snow felt good and firm so we went for it.  Together with the moderateness of the route it did not feel at all dangerous.
 

On top of the summit.
 
 

Looking north from top.
 

I didn't linger long.  The sun was up and the snow and ice were rapidly warming.  I only took the time for a few quick pictures.  Building any snow Puka fish was out of the question.  Given the warmth I knew Phil and Matt wouldn't be up here anyway.  Their trip report.
 

Arms length summit shot.
 
 

Justin a few feet from the summit.
 
 

Back down at the base of the pyramid.  The sun is just starting to hit the rime.
 
 

Justin traversing back over from the base of the gully.
 

Shortly after our departure from the gully a couple basketball sized junks of ice came rolling down.  I wasn't surprised.
 

Mt. Baker.
 

As we starting moonwalking back down to camp we met many climbers and skiers just coming up.  It was too warm to climb by now and wisely none of them went for it.
 
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