To best take advantage of the weather window, Dave Burdick, Phil Fortier,
Matt Cary and I left Seattle 9 pm Friday night and started hiking a little
after midnight. Crossing the Coleman by headlamp we reached the base
of the climb as the sky began to lighten. Good steep crusty snow
brought us up to the crux. One and a half pitches of ice climbing
(some dinner plating, but mostly solid) got us on top of the ridge.
Some nodding off at belays from being awake for over 24 hours. More
solid snow to the summit, where we took a short nap (weird dreams).
We
post-holed down the Roman wall and did a laborious slushy slog down
Coleman-Demming, frequently punching a leg or two into a hidden crevasse.
Crossing the Coleman in darkness.
We simulclimbed on two ropes, throwing in a picket from time to time.
This seemed quick at first, but eventually slowed us as the gear would
accumulate with the second team and the first team would have to wait for
them.
Morning light.
The crux of the climb is the ice cliff above. We ascended it's
left flank.
Phil on some steepish ice. Lots of dinner plating here, with
people below getting hit by big chunks (ouch!).
Me hanging out at the belay.
Phil leading the second pitch of the crux. The ramp to the left
went, doubling back right in a zig-zag.
Above the crux you just keep hiking up.