Cutthroat, South Buttress, 8 / 11 / 01
Len, Bill, Joyce and I climbed this under blue skies.
The route starts up the last obvious gully on the right. Don't get
on the ridge too early - it's a bad idea.
It is mostly a low angle climb with occasional 5.6 moves and seemingly infinite
variations.
Look closely and you will see a butterfly has landed on Len's helmet.
Closer...
Hee hee...
Len belaying Joyce across the Tarzan leap. It is the most interesting
move of the climb. You hold on to a finger pocket with your right hand
and reach for another pocket with your left. There are no foot holds.
Depending on how long your arms are you might have to let go of one
before grabbing the other.
Len just above the crux. It is a 5.8 off-width move best protected
with a #4 camalot. It's a really short move but very airy. Early
Winter's spires are visible across highway 20.